Choosing to go to Lake Geneva in the off season, no matter how close you try to time it to season open, is not ideal for anything except price. The weather wasn't awful but it was limiting. There might not be much to do outside of the beach anyway, but still not everything was ready to receive tourists. Our most plentiful options were gift shops and bars.
Luckily in Wisconsin the bars are a destination to look forward to.
Let me tell you about the best one.
It has been a long time heathen goal of mine to visit a brewery in a church. There are plenty in the Midwest but I got to have my first experience at the gorgeous Topsy Turvy Brewery. I felt a glee approaching the First Baptist stained glass that I certainly never felt growing up being dragged to the churches of my youth.
We circled the block once, unsure if they were even open. (I had been lied to about hours by the internet before) The entrance is easier to see approaching from the east but it's a much more impressive facade from the west. We fawned over the brick and glass aesthetic, taking our time across the threshold to capture the walls of glass glowing in every color. Stained glass would become a recurring theme in Lake Geneva, but we'll get to that later. There was also some sort of artisan shop on the other side of the church as well but I'm just gonna admit I was a bit shopped out at this point and barely paid attention to it. I was focused on my upcoming communion in the main hall.
I have no idea what the tone of the sermons were under previous management but the service now is something to swing by on a Monday for. We approach the bartop, a move my travel companion normally hates but the hightop tables and awkward dance it would invoke with the staff on a low traffic day was so obvious there was really no other choice. At the edge of the bartop we got a subtle 360 view of what there was to offer but I couldn't take my eyes away from the altar that flowed with liquid wheat and pure summer getaway vibes. The draft menu was bursting with hops and citrus. The bartender really knew how to sell it too.
There are a handful of patrons already settled. A pair plays chess with a community set off a well stocked rack of board games. The low top tables around the room seem to be the favorite choice of off season regulars. There's a selection of merch on a rack, a fridge with to go cans for selection, and a couch in the middle to fill the space and attempt to corral the 20something groups on busy nights. It’s a decent sized space but I wouldn’t want to find out how loud it gets on busy nights with those high ceilings.
There is minimal decoration. All attention is given to the giant walls of colored glass and the company you brought.
First things first: Drinks.
My very patient friend doesn't drink much and yet I drag him to so many tap rooms. He selects a bottle of Gold Peak from the fridge.
I jump right into a flight.
#7, Lemon Squeezee, was a fast choice. We had been wandering around for a while and I wanted something tart and refreshing. It was the adult lemonade I was looking forward to all day. I also chose #3 - Peg O My Heart, and #13 - Das Not Marzen, and they were okay. Hey there's 20+ beers on offer here they can't all be exactly what you wanted.
I let the bartender choose my last one. She asked how I felt about pale ales. I said I was always willing to try one. It must have been the phrasing or my tone because her pen hesitated and she made a face of self correction. I could see her eyes review the three I had already chosen and decided to serve me #9, the Hugh Hefeweisen, instead.
Her choice was the compliment to the flight I didn't know I needed. I love hefeweizens and theirs was light and flavorful. Unbeknownst to her the name itself also leaned into the stories of what is now known as the Grand Geneva my friend has been sharing with me all day.
We’re left alone but within quick eyesight as we discuss our adventures so far, go over the timeline for the rest of the evening, and make sure to never forget the name of the local we shared a chat with at the park. There were some snackish compliments on offer so we ordered a jumbo pretzel with cheese and mustard dip. It did it’s job as a carb pair.
At this point we got the text that our room was ready at The Cove so we had to wrap up this segment. I try to get one last bit of local information about a rumored thrift store that ended up not being what I was looking for and overtip anyway.
I left with a renewed sense of purpose to the day and for my zine. I think I found my reason to return to Lake Geneva - Topsy Turvy Brewery.
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Topsy Turvy Brewery
727 Geneva St, Lake Geneva, WI 53147
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